When visiting Bagheria near the capital city of Palermo, Sicily, one may visit the Renato Guttuso Museum. The museum is housed in a building named Villa Cattolica located in the outskirts of the town of Bagheria. Renato Guttuso was a Sicilian artist of the XX century whose works ranged from paintings, drawings, and sculptures to book illustrations.
In the Guttuso Museum one can visit many of Guttuso’s works of art as well as the works of other prominent artists. The Museum has three levels. On the first floor, there are about one hundred pieces of artwork created by Guttuso; on the second floor, the theme focuses on representations of Sicilian every day life and landscapes; on the third floor, one can see several examples of the traditional Sicilian Cart, Il Carretto Siciliano. There is also a collection of Film Posters in the Museum,donated by a local family, representing the films shown in the original cinemas of the town of Bagheria.
Renato Guttuso belonged to the art movements Expressionism and Social Realism. Many of his works portrayed the day to day life of peasants in Sicily. Among the social themes his work touched upon was the crude realities of the slaughters carried out during WW II. Guttuso was one of the great artists of twentieth century Sicily.
Museo Renato Guttuso
In 1989, while living in Virginia, I saw an Italian movie, Nuovo Cinema Paradiso, which won an Academy Award as Best Foreign Film. Nuovo Cinema Paradiso, directed by Giuseppe Tornatore, a native of the Sicilian town of Bagheria, told the story of a projectionist, Alfredo, and his young assistant, Salvatore during the 1960’s. Most of the movie is played as a flashback of Salvatore’s memories from his childhood years spent in Bagheria and shows the deep friendship that had grown over the years between Salvatore and Alfredo as they both worked the projector in the town cinema, named Paradiso. Under Alfredo’s encouragement, when he grows up, Salvatore leaves Bagheria to pursue a career in movie making and does indeed become a successful moviemaker living and working in Rome. In the movie, Salvatore, who has been away from Sicily for thirty years, learns of the death of his old projectionist friend, Alfredo, and returns for Alfredo’s funeral. Ever since I saw the movie, many years ago, I had wanted to visit the town of Bagheria, located not far from Palermo, and I finally did on a hot summer day.
I started my walk around town at the Bagheria Train Station.
Walking down the alley across from the train station.
Corso Umberto during afternoon siesta when shops are closed.
In the XVIII century, Bagheria became the summer vacation spot for many wealthy families from Palermo. There are many villas that were built in those days but only one is open to the public.
One of the Villas is Villa Trabia
While walking down the Corso on that HOT summer afternoon, I saw these two young girls out for their stroll Read more…
The city of Messina lies on the Northeastern tip of Sicily; at a one hour’s drive West of Messina is the town of Barcelona Pozzo di Gotto, the largest town in the municipality of Messina. A drive up the hills that are the backdrop to the town of Barcelona Pozzo di Gotto will lead to Parco Museo Jalari. This open air museum is dedicated to the old trades and offers a display of old tools for a variety of trades. The Park Museum lies in a beautiful natural setting, offering from its various corners a glimpse of the Northern Coast of Sicily from up high on the hills. As one walks along the paths adorned by trees and native plants, over forty workshops can be viewed each telling a piece of history. From sewing and weaving, to grooming and shoe making, to wine making and other agricultural practices, one can see original artifacts of the trades utilized by artisans in the past.
One of the paths in the Parco Jalari
Sewing and weaving
Old wooden loom and embroidery loops
Shoe making
Old barber’s utensils
Old wine press
Old Sicilian cart wheels and tools
Old sewing machines and radio
Old irons in tailor’s shop
View of the Northern Coast from Parco Jalari
This is a place worth visiting on a trip to the Northern Coast of Sicily.
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After consulting with experts of the area, the decision was made to head towards Monte Vetore, a mountain formed by a past eruption, at a point which would offer a view of the spot where the recent eruption had been taking place. That night, the eruption was not taking place, but the hike and the whole experience was well worth the trip!!!
We drove through some back roads known by my friends and arrived at Strada Provinciale, SP, 92, which is the main road that leads from the town of Nicolosi, on the Southern part of My Etna to the Cable Car, Funivia dell’Etna. At the 14th Km point on this SP 92 we parked on the side of the road where it split. At this point, on the left hand side is Monte Vetore. The hike up this mountain from the point where we parked was approximately 30 minutes; our goal was to reach its highest spot, its dormant crater. That night the ground was covered in snow and the moon’s reflection on the snow created a wonderful light to lead our way. We were carrying flash lights, but at one point, we decided to turn them off and let Mother Nature lead our path.
Before reaching the top of Mount Vetore, during the climb up, we walked by an Observatory, the Astrophysics Observatory. This is a good landmark for anyone trying to make sure they are on the correct path. Shortly after the beginning of the hike, we ran into a picnic table and benches and stopped to eat our snack. Then, slowly, we walked up the side of the mountain. After reaching the top, the crater, we decided to walk around the perimeter of the crater returning to the side of the mountain we had hiked. We looked over to the side where the eruption had taken place earlier that week but saw no action, no eruption taking place.
After enjoying the feeling of being wrapped up by the stillness of the night mountain air and the magical lights cast among the trees by the moon, we decided it was time to walk down to our starting point, close to our parked car. Upon reaching the final point, close to the car, we sat on the wall along the road to take in one last view of this beauty of Nature. What we did not expect was to suddenly see a flash of light, a squirt of lava coming out of the mountain adjacent to us. Yes, right there, the spot we had expected to find the eruption if it had taken place. There were two lovely children in our group, one seven and the other eight years old. When that squirt of lava just made its appearance disappearing in just a few instants, one of the children exclaimed: “See! Mt Etna wanted to say Hello to us and sent out a squirt of lava!”
What an exciting feeling and we all were so glad we got a glimpse of the lava! After returning home that night I could not take out of my mind the feeling that had arisen from such a beautiful experience. I plan to return to nighttime excursions on Mt Etna in the future, but the memory of that special excursion on Mt Etna, guided by the moon through the forest, will stay with me for a very long time!!
Here I am in Virginia getting ready for a very important family event and writing about my recent experience on Mt. Etna, in Sicily. On March 3, 2017, I drove up Mt. Etna, Etna Sud, driving the twenty kilometers on SP 92 that lead from the town of Nicolosi to Rifugio Sapienza. Rifugio Sapienza lies at approximately 2,000 meters elevation, to the left of the Funivia dell’Etna, Etna cable car entrance. I took the Funivia dell’Etna, the Cable Car, as seen in the photo below in the building marked EXCURSIONS, which took me up to 2,500 meters elevation. Due to an injury, I was not able to ski, so for the first time ever I visited this altitude as an observer. At the 2,500 meter point, there are vehicles of the Funivia dell’Etna that take people up to 2,700 meters elevation to a location called Il Belvedere. For several reasons, I chose to stay at 2,500 meter elevation enjoying the view, soaking up the sun and taking pictures.
Up at that elevation, one can enjoy the view of the many dormant craters which have formed over time and enjoy a view of the coastline, the Ionian Sea. Following are some videos and photos I took that day.
Heading up to 2,500 meter elevation in the Funivia dell’Etna.
Funivia dell’Etna arrival point at 2,500 meters. The terrace from which I took the picture below usually has chairs for people to enjoy sunbathing and take in the views, but that day there were none!!!
View from 2,500 meters of Etna smoking
Video taken at 2,500 meters
Riding the Funivia dell’Etna back down
My trip up Mt Etna was just thirteen days ago. This morning, while checking the headlines online of the Sicilian newspaper, La Sicilia, I read of something that happened this morning right in that area. Right at the Belvedere spot, approximately 2,700 meters altitude, a group of visitors that had gone to that point with the vehicle of the Funivia dell’Etna departing from the cable arrival point in which I took the above photos, had a huge surprise. Due to the recent snowfall covering the mountain and the incandescent lava of a new eruption which just started this week, a “phreatic explosion” took place. I learned by the article that such an explosion is caused by the incandescent lava coming into contact with the snow covering the area. It was described as an almost “instantaneous evaporation of the water with a consequent explosion of vapor, water, ash and rocks.” Of the people being hit by this morning’s phreatic explosion seven ended up in the hospital. What a freaky experience!
On the evening of March 3, 2017, the day I have described in this post, I joined some friends for a night time hike up Mt. Etna to try and see the explosive eruption that had been taking place that week. I will write about that experience in my next post.
This winter, 2016-2017, Mt. Etna has been covered in snow. Following a few pictures I have taken this February.
Etna seen from the airplane
Southern slopes of Mt. Etna
Etna seen from Taormina
Finally, my friend Maria has shared the following picture of Mt. Etna taken on January 1st, 2017. On that day, Mt. Etna had three fumaroles!
In this post, I would like to introduce my ibook on Sicily, Sicilian Roots, which has just been published on iTunes.
For a sample of the book or to download the book go to the following link:
https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/sicilian-roots/id1197057540?ls=1&mt=11
BEST,
Rosanna
The New Year has begun with lots of snow falling in Sicily.
The towns at high elevations, as on Mt. Etna, have been covered in snow!
One scene not commonly seen in Sicily is snow on the beaches. Below is a picture taken today by a friend at the beach in front of her home. This is the beach in Roccalumera, on the Eastern Coast, not far from Taormina.
FOUR AND ONE HALF YEARS AGO, I STARTED TRAVELING THROUGH SICILY AND WRITING THIS BLOG. WITH OVER 175 POSTS AND HAVING BEEN READ IN OVER 145 COUNTRIES, I AM DELIGHTED TO HAVE HAD THE OPPORTUNITY TO SHARE MY LOVE FOR SICILY WITH SO MANY.
IN JUST OVER TWO HOURS, SICILIANS WILL RING IN 2017.
I WANT TO WISH ALL MY READERS, FAMILY, FRIENDS, FOLLOWERS AND READERS WHO JUST STUMBLE UPON MY BLOG, THE MOST WONDERFUL 2017!!!
FOLLOWING ARE JUST A FEW IMAGES PORTRAYING SOME OF MY 2016 SICILIAN MOMENTS.
CHEERS!!!!!!!!!
ROSANNA
The very first time I visited Pozzallo was in Spring; at that time, I wrote a post entitled Pozzallo – Seeking the Sea but Finding Sicilian Literature, on April 10, 2012.
Over the years, I have returned to Pozzallo several times. I have enjoyed its many beaches and just taking in the atmosphere of the town. I usually stop before heading west to the towns on the Southern Coast. While in Pozzallo, besides enjoying its golden sandy beaches, it’s just been a pleasure to just take a stroll through town. When visiting Pozzallo on Tuesdays I’ve been able to stop at the Farmers’ Market held on that day. For anyone interested on heading to Malta from this part of Sicily, at the Pozzallo harbor one can catch a ferry and reach Malta in ninety minutes.
Torre Cabrera originally built to protect the town from pirates stands at a strategic corner overlooking the sea
One side street leading to the sea
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The public gardens
Quaint alleys
Golden sand beach close to Torre Cabrera
Peaceful beaches
One of my favorite coasts in Sicily lies on the southernmost tip, where the Ionian and Mediterranean seas meet. The town of Portopalo, an old fishing town, lies along that coast. I return to this location as often as I can and enjoy my walks along various parts of the coast. This summer, I found a path I had never seen before, arriving on the coast from the centre of Portopalo. Parking the car down one of the roads reaching the coast from center of town, I found a gate through which I accessed a paved path which snaked its way along the coast.
Entrance point to the path along the coast
Quiet path along the coast
Fabulous uncrowded beach on a summer day
Simply beautiful!
As I reached a corner along the path where you turn and head to the final part, I made an interesting encounter. There was a refreshment stand, but it was a unique one. The refreshment stand was a vehicle, APE, which one sees utilized for a variety of transportation purposes in Sicily. However, this one had been set up as a refreshment stand, but one advertising refreshments belonging to Slow Food. Slow Food is a global organization that was founded in Italy in 1986. It basically represents the opposite to fast food and promotes local, sustainable foods and small businesses. Here was a refreshment stand with the Slow Food logo. When I stopped to get my espresso and talk to the owner, he informed me that he was proud to state that he is the southernmost Slow Food vendor on the entire island of Sicily. He even had signs hanging on the fence next to his stand stating this fact.
I stopped to talk to the Slow Food refreshment vendor, Mr. Paolo Zuccarello. He shared stories about his childhood and was so proud of his family traditions in the town of Portopalo.
Mr. Paolo was very proud of the fact that his family had owned the very first coffee shop in the town of Portopalo.
Below is a picture he displays in his APE of the very first coffee shop in the town of Portopalo owned by Paolo Zuccarello’s family.
Another picture Mr. Paolo shared with me was the one below. Paolo Zuccarello as a young boy on a donkey drawn cart accompanied by his grandfather. 
I must say I never cease to enjoy the inventive and friendly people I meet as I travel around Sicily!!!!!
Sicily & MORE Explored by Rosanna 