On a recent visit to the southern coast of Sicily, I stayed in Pozzallo, a town on the Mediterranean coast. Upon arrival in Pozzallo, I visited different spots of the coastline and enjoyed a mid-day walk along the beach. After checking in at the B&B, Mare Nostrum, where I would spend the night, I was surprised to find that each of the rooms was named after a Sicilian writer. As I arrived to my room, I was pleased to realize I had been assigned the room named after Giovanni Verga.
Verga belonged to the realismo (realist) school of writing and described the customs of the southern society, the struggles and limitations placed upon the characters of his stories by the rules of the society in which they lived. He described, in an objective manner, the southern reality of the final part of the 1800’s, the times after the unification of Italy. Giovanni Verga’s stories were all set in Sicily, in towns not far from my hometown, Catania.
As I setttled in my room, I noticed that the words written on the headboard were an excerpt from one of Verga’s short stories, This short story, “Beyond the Sea,” is part of a collection of short stories, the Rustic Stories. There is a dual language book of Sicilian Stories published by Dover Publications, Inc. which contains the Rustic Stories.
Before departing Pozzallo, I walked to the beach close to the B&B. There I saw, for the first time this year, the swallows flying above. They were back as Spring had arrived.
In the southeastern part of Sicily, there is a Special Nature Reserve, in the “Iblei plateaux”, which was formed by layers and layers of calcareous sediments and volcanic activity. This geological structure is one of its kind in Sicily. Visiting this area one encounters canyons and river valleys with a unique biodiversity due to the humidity and flowing of nearby waters. The main waterway is the Anapo river, which flows into the Ionian sea close to Siracusa. One of the sites which belongs to the Special Nature Reserve, just 50 kilometers from Siracusa, is the necropolis of Pantalica.
I had meant to visit Pantalica for a while and finally did so this week. Driving from Siracusa, I took the highway to Sortino. I followed the signs to Pantalica and reached the northern entrance to the site. It was a sunny day and the natural habitat so enchanting, with all the Spring flowers bursting and adding to the richness of colors.
Pantalica is a rocky necropolis with burial sites excavated in the sheer rocks of a calcareous formation dating back over three thousand years. It was the burial site of a small kingdom, Hybla being the capital. The small kingdom encompassed a small area of this region between the thirteenth and the eighth centuries B.C.
Below are a few pictures I took in Pantalica.
This is the path one walks down to the bottom of the canyon. Quite rocky!!!
Rocky path in Pantalica
Bat Cave in Pantalica
As I was leaving the Pantalica site, I stopped to talk to the park ranger. He recommended I drive down to the Anapo River Valley and take a walk along the river in that part of the reserve. I did so and enjoyed another aspect of this natural habitat, down below close to the waters, with a plush vegetation due to the higher humidity.
Recently, my Sicilian cousin, Francesca, sent me an excerpt of a book written by a Sicilian writer, Vincenzo Cunsolo. The book is entitled “Le Pietre di Pantalica”, my translation, The Rocks of Pantalica . Vincenzo Cunsolo was born in Palazzolo Acreide, not far from Pantalica, but he moved to the north of Italy where he lived and worked.
I would like to share the excerpt from Cunsolo’s book in its original Italian version and will then write my translation of it into English below.
“Io non so che voglia sia questa, ogni volta che torno in Sicilia, di volerla girare e girare, di percorrere ogni lato, ogni capo della costa, inoltrarmi all’interno, sostare in città e paesi, in villaggi e luoghi sperduti, rivedere vecchie persone, conoscerne nuove. Una voglia, una smania che non mi lascia star fermo in un posto. Non so. Ma sospetto sia questo una sorta d’addio, un volerla rivedere e toccare prima che uno dei due sparisca…”
“I do not understand this longing I have, each time I return to Sicily, to travel around and around, to go to each side, each end of the coast, to travel inland, to stop at cities and towns, villages and off the beaten path. It is a wish to revisit old friends and meet new ones. It is a desire, a restlessness that doesn’t allow me to stand still in one place. I don’t know. Perhaps this may be some sort of good bye, a wish to see it all and touch it all before one of the two disappears.”
Vincenzo Cunsolo passed away recently, on January 21st, 2012.
When one drives to the southern part of Sicily, there is a town perched up on a hill named Ispica, which is absolutely beautiful. I remember the first time I drove by this town and was surprised when it suddenly appeared, after a curve, right there on top of the road.
I recently drove to Ispica with a friend, Maria, visiting from Turin, and we were joined by a resident of Ispica, Maria’s friend, Angela, who took us around town, to a local natural park, and explained so much of the local history. Angela, was on her day off from her job as an ambulance driver.
The drive up to Ispica on a winding road allows you to see the rocky formations all around and this is one of those sceneries so typical of the southern area of Sicily. Below are some pictures taken during the visit to Ispica.
Church of S. Annunziata
Next to Ispica is Parco Forza where I took a picture of the valley floor.
A cave at Parco Forza
Modern day theatre for outdoor events
Before leaving town, we bought fresh ricotta which had just been made by Beppe Cappello, who delivers door to door.
Attending a college graduation is always a joy, but attending the graduation of your special childhood friend’s son is an even greater joy, especially when you have lived abroad for so many years! Recently, I attended such a graduation from Medical School. The graduate, Gabriele, joined seven other medical students from his course and their graduation ceremony was quite different from any other I had ever seen abroad. Here. at graduation, the students carry out an oral presentation supported by a power point of the research done for their thesis to a panel of professors, right there in front of their families and friends. I was quite impressed by the concentration each candidate displayed and their focus on their power points, even though the knew their families and friends were watching.
After the presentation, each candidate sat in front of the panel of professors and answered whichever question any one of the professors asked. When the professors have ended their questions, the candidates were told they could go and sit in the front row of the auditorium and wait for all the candidates to go through the process.
After all the presentations were completed by the graduation candidates, the panel of professors adjourned to consult and prepare the final grade. When they returned to the auditorium for the announcement, they asked the candidates to stand in front of them in a row and wait for their final grade. The final grades were announced publicly to each of the graduation candidates, right there in front of their families and friends.
Gabriele did an excellent job on his presentation and earned the highest grade. He plans to continue his studies in the medical field by specializing in Genetics.
Bravo Gabriele!
Gabriele during his power point presentation-
Gabriele hugging his proud MAMMA!
At the reception, Gabriele with me!
Early in February 2012, I participated in a project called APE, to build a classroom to be used for free workshops on ecology with school age children. The classroom was being built by a group of volunteers using natural materials collected from the land. Although the completion of the natural building was interrupted for logistical reasons, the project is being carried out on a lot of land close-by.
The purpose of this project is to offer hands on experience to young students, ages 5-13, in the practice of sustainable farming, specifically to create a vegetable garden following some of the principles of permaculture. This project was created by Serena Bonura, who has been active in permaculture, in Sicily, for a while. The workshops will be carried out from March to June 2012. Serena’s friend, Angela, is working on the project too.
Information on this project is available at the following blog
Yesterday I joined Serena and Angela during the workshop with 3rd and 5th grade students. I was impressed by the way the children were engaged and took pride in carrying out the tasks at hand. What a wonderful project!!!!!!!!!!!!
Serena, Rosanna and Angela
Below is a picture of me in the key hole mound of soil; a variety of vegetables were planted by the children in this key hole. The key hole shape makes it possible for several people to work on both sides at the same time. After the mound was formed, the children placed wet cardboard on the soil, planted the vegetables and then covered the surface with straw.
The Cherry Blossom in Washington D.C. is an event enjoyed each year by many people who live in the area and those who come just to see this display of nature’s beauty.
Today I received these photos taken this morning at the Cherry Blossom in Washington DC. The photos were taken by my friends and neighbors, Ann and Hollis. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!
This morning, I joined my ski buddies for what we thought would be just another day skiing on Mt. Etna. We drove up the mountain very early to try to beat the crowds, as it was a Sunday. We got on the cable car knowing the gorgeous sunshine would provide a lovely day of skiing. Little did we know what was to come!
As we arrived at the cable car destination, we got off and went outside to put our skies on. We looked up and saw that a small crater, right behind us, was puffing black smoke\ash. We looked at it and then took our first run down.
As we returned to the cable car destination for our second run, we noticed the smoke was intensifying. We walked outside and suddenly Etna decided to give us a show. Suddenly, the smoke intensified, we started seeing red, lava actually bursting out amidst the smoke\ash, right before our eyes, and then the well-known “roars” and explosions. The emotions were high for all around and everyone started just gazing at the spectacle.
As many of us stood there in awe, one young man commented on how we love skiing Mt. Etna for the views of the coastline below, but to even get an eruption right before our eyes is just too much!!!!!!!!!!
As usual, pictures cannot do justice to the actual experience!!
The view of the coastline from the slopes
Thank You, Filippo and Garibaldi, as I would not have gone skiing alone!!!!!
After the recent drive to the Southern Coast of Sicily, it was time to visit the Northern Coast, which lies adjacent to the Tyrrhenian Sea. Driving up the Eastern Coast to the furthest point, the views offer Mount Etna to the left and the Ionian Sea to the right. In mid March, nature is coming alive and the variety of colors of the surroundings are enchanting as one enjoys the azure sea to one side, the green hills on the other, with a view of Mt. Etna totally covered in snow. On this particular drive, the weather was the best one could ask for and the sky was clear. After a one hour drive from the mid section of the Eastern Coast, one arrives to the Northern Coast. For several kilometers, before reaching the Northern Coast, one travels through tunnels, along gorges, and then suddenly there is the Tyrrhenian Sea.
At this point, at a distance, one can also see the Eolian islands, named after the Greek god of the winds.
The drive along the Northern Coast displays a different landscape as there is a mountain range to the left. The drive on a mid March day offers views of the green hills with an abundance of patches of yellow flowers. Here and there the road leading through the towns climbs up the cliffs and then down the coastline offering breathtaking views. At times, the road takes a serpentine pattern with hairpin bends that can give the driver a sense of hanging in the air. However, the views one enjoys make the drive well worth it. Along the road, there are many Mediterranean pine trees and cypresses, some with their tips swaying in the gentle breeze.
The following pictures were taken along the drive.
It is always a joy to stop and watch the butterflies.
And finally some pictures of Agriturismo Santa Margherita where I spent the night.
View of the coastline upon arrival, after driving up a very steep country road.
The view from my room!
My afternoon walk on the grounds of Agriturismo Santa Margherita
Sheep on the grounds and the Nebrodi Mountain Range in the background
At dinner, my hors d’ouvres consisted of broccoletti with fresh tomatoes, spicy meatballs, fried squash, fried cheese, and caponata, which is a sweet and sour dish made with peppers, eggplant, tomatoes, potatoes and celery. Exquisite!
Early in March, driving from Catania, on the Eastern Coast of Sicily to the Southern Coast, is a pleasant drive with views of the Ionian Sea to the left and to the right a view of a plush vegetation of olive groves and orchards scattered along the hills. On this trip, I drove to the town of Pozzallo, which lies on the southern coast. From Pozzallo, one can drive westward along the coast of the Mediterranean with its emerald green color just sparkling in the sun.
Orchards close to Cassibile, along the way, on the Eastern Coast.
Below are olive groves along the way to Rosolini, approximately 20 km before Pozzallo, which is on the coast.
This region is certainly less populated than other coastlines of the island and one can enjoy pristine beaches lying in front of large, plush fields with farms enjoying a view of the coast
Image below shows a farm in front of the coast soon after Pozzallo.
Following is the view of the beach from the farm above.
There are many towns along the way, which offer both built up communities, which come alive in the summer season, but also quaint little towns. These little towns still portray their original beauty in the architecture of the buildings and large beaches in their natural state.
Following photos are of one quaint town along the coast, Donnalucata.
The final stop along the coast on this trip was the town of Punta Secca. This town has become known as the residence of Commissario Montalbano . Montalbano is a police chief and main character of the mysteries written by Italian writer, Camilleri. The mysteries have been made into a TV series, which is aired in many countries. While visiting San Fransisco in December 2011, I met Sharon, who was familar with the mysteries and follows the TV series right there in San Francisco, California.
Below are images of Punta Secca and the villa on the beach where Ispettore Montalbano lives and which has become famous for his standing on the balcony looking out at the beach and then running to the beach for a swim to unwind!
View of the beach from Montalbano’s villa.
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Finally, Montalbano loves Arancini, traditional Sicilian stuffed rice balls, and this cafe’ has become famous for serving such Arancini. The cafe’ displays a sign, Gli Arancini di Montalbano, Montalbano’s Arancini.
The drive from Catania on the eastern coast of Sicily to Linguaglossa, northern side of Mt. Etna, is a pleasant 45 minute drive with a view of the volcano to the left and the Ionian sea to the right. Along the way, one can enjoy the beautiful views of the towns perched on the mountain and those lying along the coast. At one point, the climb up the mountain takes the traveler up a pine forest, all the way to the skiing resort of Linguaglossa. The ski resort is at approximately 1,800 meters altitude.
The last time I skied Mt. Etna was 1980!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Today, the weather and the snow conditions were exceptional and of the kind one doesn’t experience very often. As it was a Friday, there were no weekend crouds, so just the best time to hit the slopes. Skiing on perfect snow conditions, with a sunny day and the view of the coastline below is more than one can ask. Many people do not realize how exceptional it is to be on an island with a variety of beaches and from the city of Catania just a 45 minute drive to skiing on Mt. Etna. Mt. Etna stands at 3,330 meters high with a diameter of 210 kilometers. The images below are of the Southern side, Nicolosi.
My ski buddies and I.
There are those who ski in a tie having come straight from work at lunch time.
One can enjoy lunch at an alttitude of 2,500 meters.
From the slopes a view of the coastline and the Ionian Sea.
Breathtaking experience!!!!!!!!! I was petrified at the idea of doing this alone, but I DID IT!!! The logistics are quite simple. There are several companies that rent out bicycles on a daily or hourly basis and the one I chose is located at 501 Bay St. From this point, one rides out to the waterfront area of Fisherman’s Wharf and then heads out on a bike path towards the GGB. Unfortunately, I lost the map of the paths towards the end of the run, but basically one rides along Mason Dr which later becomes Marina Dr. This path travels along the beach of San Francisco and on a beautiful day, as was yesterday, there were so many people riding their bikes, walking and just taking in the scenery. I stopped at the beach to ask directions from a biker who was taking a break and when I told him I was looking for the path which had no incline he realized I did not know what I was talking about. He commented that he has been doing this ride for five years and there was indeed an incline. In fact, when I hit the hill, I simply got off my bike and proceeded to walk the bike up the hill. It felt a little better as three young ladies in front of me were doing the same. After a winding path overlooking the bay with upclose views of the bridge, I reached the final parking lot before the final path to the bridge.
After checking out the area, I rode to the bottom of the last hill, which had two paths and I did not know which one to take. I was just sitting there staring and wondering which way to go when as if something was calling me, I looked far to the right. Surprise!!! The biker I had spoken to one hour earlier was sitting right there and just pointed me to the right path with a smile. Have you ever felt a guardian angel just showed you the way? Well, that is what it felt like.
The ride along the bridge offers incredible views of the bay, Alcatraz and the San Francisco skyline. After riding along the bridge, I chose to ride all the way down to Sausalito, where I could hop on a ferry and return to San Francisco. So, I rode down this gorgeous way to this quaint little town on the sea. I rode my bike back to the rental shop and then decided I would work my way back to Market St. to catch the BART(underground). As it was getting dark, the city was bustling as it was now rush hour. I went through Little Italy and Chinatown and then reached Union Square which was all lit up with Christmas lights. What a day!!!
Sicily & MORE Explored by Rosanna 