Driving from Portopalo to the Southernmost point in Sicily, and consequently Italy, one reaches Isola delle Correnti. It is here that one can see the two seas meet- the Mediterranean and the Ionian Sea.
Quando ci si reca in auto da Portopalo alla punta estrema meridionale della Sicilia e conseguentemente dell’Italia, si raggiunge l’Isola delle Correnti. In questo punto si vedono i due mari che si incontrano – il Mediterraneo e lo Ionio.
This area is very windy and the golden sand beaches still unspoiled. Questa zona presenta forti venti e le spiagge dorate sono incontaminate.
Isola delle Correnti is a ten minute drive from the center of Portopalo di Capo Passero and certainly worth a visit!
L’Isola delle Correnti dista dieci minuti in auto dal centro di Portopalo di Capo Passero e vale la pena di visitarla!
Driving South on the island of Sicily, down to the final part of the island, lies a gem called Portopalo. This quaint fishing village has grown in the recent years, but still holds its traditional aspect. To reach Portopalo driving from the City of Catania, where the largest airport on the Eastern Coast of Sicily is located, one drives down E45 to Noto and then follows the signs to Portopalo.
In Portopalo there are several B and B’s, Hotel Vittorio in the square overlooking the coastline and several restaurants serving local catch and traditional Sicilian cuisine. In the vicinity to the village, there are a few campgrounds and agri tourism facilities offering hospitality.
The sea in Portopalo is pristine and this is a great place for snorkeling. In Portopalo lies a small peninsula, accessible by foot or boat, offering more snorkeling opportunities.
On the Isola di Capo Passero old fishermen’s houses have recently been the scene of theatrical performances bringing Artistic talent to traditional land.
When visiting Portopalo one can take the ten minute drive to the Southernmost point in Italy, Isola delle Correnti, where the two seas, the Mediterranean and the Ionian meet.
Home to me means both USA and Sicily and I am the bridge between the two. I also have a physical home in each location.
In November 2019, I left my home in Sicily to return to the one in the USA. I never dreamt what was about to happen. When the Pandemic hit in March 2020, I was home in Virginia.
Although physically located in the USA, I was connected to my other home across the ocean. To make that even more tangible, in Spring 2020, major maintenance needed to be carried out in my home in Sicily. Due to the pandemic, I could not travel back. Thanks to modern technology and some awesome folks, I was able to manage months of work from across the ocean.
Soon I will physically travel back home to Sicily. At that time, I will have been physically away 500 days.
Among the many activities I carry out in Sicily, I look forward to my morning walks along the coast. During my walk, I stop at a kiosk for an espresso with the view of the sea.
I will return to my volcano, Mt. Etna, and feel the energy it emanates.
I will return to favorite places……and embrace once again family and friends very dear to me…..
At the end of my path on my morning walks, I walk by my favorite statue shown below. It portrays a Mother and Child. This statue is a lovely reminder that my own children, grandchildren, “adopted” ones too, are always with me virtually and I will be reunited with them when I return home to the USA on the other side of my bridge.
Today I break my rule of publishing only photos and videos I have personally taken.
As I am not in Sicily at this time, I am publishing two videos of Etna’s eruption today, videos I received from friends in Sicily.
It has been almost a year since I left my home in Sicily. My home over there is locked and my car is asleep and silent parked in my garage. When I left, I had no idea how Covid19 would change the world. Covid is still with us and, at this time, I do not know when I shall return to Sicily!
It was last November, almost a year ago, just before heading back to Virginia, that I saw my first Starbucks cold Caffe’ Latte at a supermarket in my hometown in Sicily!
For some time, I had wondered whether I would ever see the Starbucks cup in a business in Italy. There it was – sitting on a shelf at my Sicilian supermarket!!!
The Starbucks cup, with its iconic double tailed mermaid, representing the seafaring tradition of Seattle, the city where Starbucks was founded, has reached an Italian supermarket. I was quite surprised.
In Italy, coffee arrived from Asia in the 16th century. Italians developed their own brewing practices and coffee traditions. Anyone living in Italy knows certain coffee drinking practices are unique and engrained in the Italian culture. Many people start their day stopping at their favorite “bar”, enjoying an espresso or cappuccino, a cornetto, and then heading out to work or whatever they do.
It is in Italy that many cafe’s aka “bars” are family owned; many times bars are passed down from generation to generation and the owners or their employees establish a rapport with their customers that is carried out over time.
Naturally, many bars share familiar logos of popular coffee brands, but the actual “bar’ itself has been a place where tradition and customs are unique. Bars have their own personalities. It is customary to go to one’s favorite bar and visit it regularly.
So when I saw that Starbucks ready to consume coffee at the supermarket I wondered. How would Starbucks be received in this culture. What I saw seems to show that Starbucks, so far, has arrived as a commodity for those who want to just have a pre-made portable coffee available at a supermarket.
While new products from abroad find their place in Italy, the traditional bars in Italy remain the norm and maintain that unique personality they have enjoyed for scores and scores of years. Lets wish that doesn’t change.
I, too, have my favorite coffee bars when in Sicily. When I take my morning walks close to my home by the sea, I stop at the kiosk in the photos below. It is there that I enjoy my espresso, a friendly conversation with the owners and then off to enjoy the majestic beauty of nature and the coastline while continuing my walk.
Today, April 7th, 2020, is my 25th day of self sheltering amid the Coronavirus Pandemic which has hit the world.
I have been doing my part by isolating myself , practicing social distance on the rare trips to the grocery store and praying for humanity.
As many, Thanks to technology, I have been able to stay connected with my loved ones and enjoy various activities both mental as well as physical while in isolation.
Just now, I received a wonderful image which touched my heart and I want to share it.
My childhood friend Lina, whom I have known since we both were nine years old, just sent me this photo. In November, when I left Sicily and returned to the USA, I left this Orchid plant, bare at that time, with Lina.
Today, thousands of miles across the ocean from Sicily, I receive this beautiful image of OUR orchid blooming.
As I enjoy this beauty, it represents for me a symbol of all of our lives which WILL bloom to New Beginnings!
Early Fall is a great time to visit the beaches in Sicily. The summer crowds have left and one can enjoy peaceful days. The temperature is usually pleasant but a light jacket comes in handy.
Fall is also the rain season and one should be prepared to encounter sudden rain storms followed by sunshine!
Sampieri, located on the Southern Coast of Sicily, on the Eastern side, is certainly worth a visit. The beach with its golden sand stretches along a quaint hamlet. A short drive inland leads to the towns of Scicli and Modica.
Photo of Fornace di Sampieri- The remains of an old brick making facility in Sampieri
Waterfront
Sampieri Beach
A stroll at sunset
This morning, while driving in Catania, Sicily, I suddenly found myself avoiding being hit. I managed to dodge a car cutting in front of my path from the lane to my right, and at the same time, one doing the same from the lane to my left. The sensation that arose in me brought me back to my younger years when I would drive Bumper Cars at the Amusement Park!
While feeling relieved when I managed to avoid being hit, I starting to think. What would it be like to drive in Sicily for any driver who has never experienced this kind of “unruly” driving?
With so many visitors renting cars and driving around Sicily, I feel compelled to share the following thoughts regarding driving in Sicily.
1. Be aware that many drivers in Sicily do not follow the road code.
2. Many drivers in Sicily do not stop at pedestrian crossings; you may want to flash your emergency lights when you stop at a pedestrian crossing to avoid being hit.
3. The STOP sign is often not respected so watch out and do not assume those with a stop sign will stop.
4. Be prepared to have scooters passing you right and left and cutting into your path.
5. Do not get angry. Just practise patience and caution.
Naturally, there are also positive sides to driving in Sicily. The greatest is the scenery and natural beauty one encounters. To end on a positive note, I will close with just one of the many beautiful images drivers in Sicily can enjoy while patiently experiencing the unruly driving.
Mt. Etna
The Aegadian Islands lie off the Western Coast of Sicily and are comprised of three islands, Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo. They can be reached from Trapani on the island of Sicily taking a hydrofoil. The largest of those islands is Favignana.
Le isole Egadi giacciono al largo della costa occidentale della Sicilia e sono Favignana, Levanzo e Marettimo. Si possono raggiungere via aliscafo da Trapani. La più’ grande delle isole e” Favignana.
A prolonged stay certainly offers the visitor a chance to explore a location extensively. If one is short on time, a quick one day trip from mainland Sicily is possible.
Certamente quando e’ possibile trascorrere un lungo periodo si ha l’opportunità’ di esplorare il territorio. Per chi non ha molto tempo a disposizione e’ possibile recarsi in giornata dalla Sicilia.
While visiting Trapani on the Western Coast of Sicily, I took a one day trip to Favignana and enjoyed its natural beauty. Easily reachable by hydrofoil, one being the Liberty Lines company operating from Trapani. The ride from Trapani to Favignana took approximately thirty minutes.
Durante una visita a Trapani sulla costa occidentale della Sicilia, mi sono recata in giornata a Favignana per godermi le sue bellezze naturali. E’ facile raggiungere l’isola in aliscafo ed una delle compagnie di navigazione e’ la Liberty Lines con partenza da Trapani. Il tragitto da Trapani a Favignana si percorre in circa trenta minuti.
Upon arrival on the island, one finds many small businesses catering to visitors and providing options in renting different kinds of vehicles, even for a short time. The flatness of the island allows to travel by bicycle, but given my tight schedule I chose to rent a car. Given the condition of the vehicle, I was not quite sure it would get me around! However, those renting the vehicle to me assured me that help would be only a quick phone call away and I took my chances!
All’arrivo a Favignana, vi sono parecchi operatori che offrono opzioni ai visitatori nel noleggio di diversi tipi di mezzi di trasporto, anche per poche ore. Essendo l’isola piuttosto pianeggiante e’ possibile andare in bicicletta ma dato che il mio tempo sull’isola era limitato ho scelto di noleggiare un’auto. Notando la condizione in cui era l’auto, non ero certa della sua affidabilità’. Comunque, i noleggiatori mi hanno assicurato che nel caso necessitassi aiuto l’avrei ricevuto contattandoli telefonicamente ed ho deciso di rischiare!!
I drove along the Eastern Coast stopping a few times along the way at beautiful beaches and then decided to head to Cala Rossa, one of the coastlines I had read about while planning the trip. Cala Rossa is reachable from rugged terrain and one must be confident in scrambling down some rugged rocks to reach the Cala below. I parked my rental on the last unpaved road available before heading to Cala Rossa.
Ho percorso la costa orientale dell’isola fermandomi più’ volte lungo il percorso su meravigliose spiagge ed ho deciso di recarmi a Cala Rossa, uno dei luoghi di cui avevo letto nel preparami per l’escursione. Cala Rossa si raggiunge da un percorso scosceso e bisogna sentirsi a proprio agio nel scendere lungo una scogliera frastagliata per raggiungere la cala sottostante. Ho posteggiato la mia auto sull’ultima strada sterrata del percorso prima di scendere verso Cala Rossa.
Below is my rental car which made it over unpaved roads I traveled in spite of my fears….. In basso una foto dell’auto che non mi ha lasciata in panne su strade sterrate nonostante le mie paure……
After walking that rugged terrain in the heat, finding a small “camp” with refreshments was like seeing an oasis! The owner took pride in making a fabulous sandwich with local flavorful ingredients cultivated and prepared by him: tomatoes, anchovies, capers, basil and oregano. For a traveler who had not brought any food along, that was a pleasant encounter!!!
Dopo aver camminato sul terreno scosceso col caldo, l’aver trovato un piccolo accampamento per ristoro e’ stato come trovare un’oasi! Il proprietario era orgoglioso del suo panino favoloso realizzato con ingredienti che lui stesso aveva coltivato e preparato: pomodori, acciughe, capperi, basilico ed origano. Per una viaggiatrice che non aveva portato cibo con se’, questo incontro e’ stato molto gradito!
Finally, before heading back to the harbor to drop off the rental car and catch the hydrofoil back to Trapani, I took a short walk through the town center of the island.
Infine, prima di ritornare al porto a lasciare la vettura e prendere l’aliscafo per Trapani, ho fatto una breve passeggiata nel centro del paese.
The day trip was very pleasant. On a longer stay, one could certainly enjoy exploring many other spectacular coastlines and “calle.” One building not to miss is the Old Tuna Processing Plant that represents the island’s former tuna fishing tradition and was run by the Florio family. That tuna processing plant is now a museum. My trip was short but sweet!
Questa escursione di un giorno e’ stata molto piacevole. Con un soggiorno più’ lungo, sarebbe possibile certamente visitare altre zone costiere spettacolari e le “calle”. Da non perdersi lo stabilimento dell ‘antica tonnara che appartiene alla tradizione della pesca del tonno della famiglia Florio. Adesso lo stabilimento della vecchia tonnara e’ un museo. Il mio viaggio e’ stato breve ma bello!
Lipari is the largest of the The Aeolian Islands, an archipelago of seven islands off the Northeastern coast of Sicily. You can read about other Aeolian islands in the Aeolian Islands category of this blog.
Lipari e’ la piu grande delle isole Eolie, un archipelago di sette isole che giacciono sulla parte nord orientale della Sicilia. Potete leggere di altre Isole Eolie su questo blog nella categoria intitolata Isole Eolie.
The most direct way to reach Lipari is by taking the hydrofoil from the town of Milazzo, on the Northern coast of Sicily. Hikers can enjoy breathtaking views around the island. There are hiking trails for different levels and the trails’ maps can be purchased at the book shop on the main street in Lipari named Corso Vittorio Emanuele.
Il percorso piu diretto per raggiungere Lipari e’ prendendo l’aliscafo dalla citta’ di Milazzo, sulla costa settentrionale della Sicilia. A chi piace praticare escursionismo l’isola offre viste mozzafiato. Vi sono percorsi per escursionismo a vari livelli di difficolta’ e si possono acquistare le cartine con I percorsi presso la libreria sulla via principale di Lipari che si chiama Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Corso Vittorio Emanuele which runs into the square where the hydrofoils land.
Il Corso Vittorio Emanuele raggiunge la piazza dove approdano gli aliscafi.
Marina Corta – a short walk from Corso Vittorio Emanuele – Some of the boat excursions navigating around the island or to other islands in the archipelago depart from Marina Corta.
Marina Corta- si raggiunge facilmente a piedi dal Corso Vittorio Emanuele – alcune delle escursioni in barca che navigano intorno all’isola o si recano alle altre isole dell’arcipelago partono da Marina Corta.
White pomice cliffs – Scogliere di pomice bianca
View of I Faraglioni – Pietra Lunga and Pietra Menalda from the area named Belvedere Quattrocchi
Vista dei Faraglioni – Pietra Longa e Pietra Menalda viste dalla zona Belvedere Quattrocchi
Fresh seafood meals at this restaurant on Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Pasti a base di pesce fresco presso questo ristorante sul Corso Vittorio Emanuele
Malvasia – a dessert wine in Lipari
Malvasia – un vino dolce da dessert di LiparL
Steps leading to the Cathedral of St. Bartholomew
Gradini che portano alla Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo
Cathedral of St Bartholomew
Cattedrale di San Bartolomeo
Finally, close to the Cathedral,, one can visit the Castle of Lipari and the Aeolian Archeological Museum within the Castle’s compound. The Museum holds a rich collection of Prehistoric Mediterranean artifacts.
Infine, vicino alla Cattedrale si puo/ visitare il Castello di Lipari ed il Museo Archeologico Eoliano che si trova dentro il complesso del castello. Il museo contiene una ricca collezione di artefatti del Mediterraneo di origine Preistorica.
Each year, the Baroque town of Noto, Sicily, holds the Infiorata, Floral Carpet. It is an event in which artists create colorful designs utilizing flower petals. In May 2013, I wrote about the Infiorata held that year in Noto, and at that time the theme was Japan.
This year, 2019, marked the 40th edition of the Infiorata in Noto and the theme was “Vieni ca ti cuntu”, “Storie di Siciliani in America,” “Come, Let Me Tell You..” “Stories of Sicilians living in America.”
The Infiorata as is a Springtime celebration which lasts three months, with many cultural and artistic events held during April, May and June. However, the actual display of the fresh flower designs on the street named Via Nicolacci takes place the third weekend in May.
This year, I made it a priority to visit the Infiorata and walk up Via Nicolacci admiring the exquisite work of art displayed on the ground. I had met a dear acquaintance, Gigi, and learned that her son had created the sketch of the first floral picture of this year’s Infiorata, the title,” Il Sogno che Avanza… Icone a Confronto.”
Following are some of the floral pictures displayed at Infiorata 2019. There is a picture of the sign that was hanging next to the work of art, explaining the piece, as well as the floral picture itself.
The first work of floral art was entitled,
“The Dream that Advances… Icons in Comparison.”
In the piece. the Sicilian paladins and the Statue of Liberty are the icons featured to represent Sicily and the USA.
For this first picture, following is also a photo of the creator of the sketch, Flavio Russotto. Flavio’s mother, whom I know, shared this photo of her son photographed while working on his floral sketch.
In addition, following are Flavio Russotto’s own words on the topic:
The next floral picture is entitled,
“Migrations…. The Journey”
“Gaetana Midolo – A Noto Woman in New York.”
In the following floral picture the person featured is Gaetana Midolo, She was originally from the town of Noto and died in the New York fire at the Triangle Shirt Waist Company.
Joe Di Maggio – famous baseball player
Joe Di Maggio
“Lady Gaga”
Liza Minnelli- “New York New York”
“Frank Sinatra – The Voice”
Finally, a view of the entire floral display in Via Nicolacci as seen from above on the rooftop of the Chiesa di Montevergine.
In my twenties, I flew a light four passenger aircraft on a scenic flight above Sicily, but as it was such a bad experience, I promised I would never set foot on a small plane again. I kept that promise for forty years. However, this all changed on March 8, 2019; on that day, I broke my promise and am absolutely delighted to have done so!
While visiting New Zealand and planning a trip from Queenstown to Milford Sound, I had planned to travel by land to Milford Sound, enjoy the natural beauty on the way, driving through lush Fiordland National Park, before sailing through Milford Sound on a catamaran. Although I knew flying back to Queenstown was an option to enjoy the breathtaking views from above, I did not even want to consider that option at first. As I pondered on whether I would consider hanging up my past fears and possibly considering the light aircraft flight back from Milford Sound to Queenstown, I started pondering the option.
In the days preceding the flight, I imagined myself up in air and visualized the whole experience. I told myself there was absolutely no way I could live the fear of those earlier years, but that I was ready to do my best to overcome my fears of the past. I started practicing self help strategies in preparation to the flight as focused breathing and meditation. After much anticipation, the day arrived!
In Queenstown, I boarded a coach traveling by land to Fiordland National Park with opportunities to stop and walk in its forest and be embraced by that lush natural beauty. I enjoyed plush vegetation, large ferns I had come to love, waterfalls and reflecting water bodies to name a few.
Next, I boarded the catamaran that took me through Milford Sound, with its mountains plunging into the outlet, sailing through the narrow outlet and reaching the Tasman Sea. On the way back, the view of the narrow outlet from the opposite angle and a close encounter with the largest waterfall and its refreshing sprays!
Stirling Falls
At last, stepping off the catamaran, I met the pilot and the fellow passengers and walked to the airfield to board the Cessna A8 that would fly me back to Queeenstown. After boarding the light plane and taking off, the much-awaited experience began. Words can hardly explain the emotion felt in embracing an experience I had avoided and feared for most of my life! But the natural beauty that I was admiring enveloped me and I was embraced by the excitement that overcame me as I admired those enchanting views from above. I focused on my breathing and enjoyed. The sun was shining brightly and the mountains diving vertically into the waterway in the narrow outlet with its waters glistening, giving a magical touch to the picture. As we traveled, the mountains seen from above were majestic with the lush vegetation hanging onto them tightly. The flight lasted approximately thirty-five minutes – thirty-five minutes of pure enjoyment. Stepping off the plane I told myself perhaps this would be the first of a series of new experiences for me.
Reflecting upon this experience I know what allowed me to reach this point. By traveling solo in lands so distant from any land I have lived in or known, little by little I stretched myself beyond my comfort zone. Stretching beyond the comfort zone allowed me to step out and realize what for so long seemed unreachable was just within my reach! Never stop growing!
In conclusion, I would like to share practical information on my experience for any who may seek to pursue the same. On this trip, I rode a glass top coach from Queenstown to Milford Sound managed by Southern Discoveries and a catamaran through Milford Sound also run by Southern Discoveries. Both rides were very enjoyable and lots of interesting information was provided on board by the guides. Paul, the coach guide, was fantastic in his explanations, the result of lots of personal research. My light plane flight back to Queenstown was by Glenorchy Air and I would certainly recommend this flight to anyone who wants to take the entire air land water experience. The pilot, Lucas, was great, the flight smooth and never did I feel unsafe.
An interesting note is information I learned from the pilot of my flight, Lucas. Only 20 percent of scheduled flights from Milford Sound to Queenstown actually take place due to the weather in the Sound; consequently, if you go, just hope you are one of the lucky ones who gets to fly back!!!
Sicily & MORE Explored by Rosanna 